krick u25 wooden hull

Very nice!

Any chance of a photo showing the internals?

From various accounts, this veteran sub was a good performer as a dynamic diver or with a ballast tank fitted.

If I was you, I would check on the most important question:

"Does it keep the water out?"

If it doesn't, modern shaft and linkage seals will help.

It presumably has a waterproof hatch which may be potential problem.

A manual, after all these years, will probably be of limited use.

David

david f wrote:Very nice!

Any chance of a photo showing the internals?

From various accounts, this veteran sub was a good performer as a dynamic diver or with a ballast tank fitted.

If I was you, I would check on the most important question:

"Does it keep the water out?"

If it doesn't, modern shaft and linkage seals will help.

It presumably has a waterproof hatch which may be potential problem.

A manual, after all these years, will probably the originalbe of limited use.

David

i have put some pictures from the inside on the forum
i think the original cover is fitted because it is also made out of wood with a rubber sheet on it
but they have tried to fix it with silecone
so i have to figure out the best way to make it water tight
rob

Hi Rob,
So it is a wooden hatch held down by 4 bolts?

I must say from the outset that I have always found flat hatches difficult. However lots of people do use them - so perhaps they would comment on  here?

I would have thought it would be worth trying the original silicone rubber method before you do anything else.

- Lightly "Vaseline" the hull lip. (To prevent the silicone rubber sticking.)

- Put good quality silicone rubber (e,g aquarium sealant) on the top hatch.

- Seal it up and leave it for several days to set.

- Carefully remove the hatch and you stand a good chance of it sealing. I think most people continue to lightly Vaseline it.

I always find it useful to incorporate a pipe into the hull so that you can apply slight air pressure for leak testing. (I use a party balloon - lot's available at this time of year!)

This link gives a general description of flat hatches:

https://www.theassociationofmodelsubmariners.com/t1092-darnell-type-xx1-graham-s-dad-s-boat-for-refurbishment?highlight=Type+XX

Hein's rather useful reply:

Dear Mr. Forrest
I very much hope that the machine translation is understood.

First of all, I would like to wish you and your family the best wishes for the coming holidays, and also all the best wishes for the new year.
Let us hope that all our wishes come true.

As a sporadic visitor to their forum, I found a report on the Krick-boot

Typ 25 or 26. (Wooden hull)

I myself have had such a boat for many years, but I have the original version, which in the 1960 he was still manufactured by Schuco-Hegi. My model had a cover that had been milled from one piece of wood. (Abachi) A short time later, Schuco-Hegi stopped the production. Many years went by, until Krick reintroduced this model into their program. From this time, the model was delivered in layered construction. These layer boards were sawn out in the factory and were glued together from the model- builder.
The opening of the fuselage was closed with a prefabricated (milled) cover made of beech plywood and two long threaded rods and knurled nuts.
The upper deck was molded from ABS and provided with slots.
But the colleague knows this from his own point of view.

If you think that some more insignificant tips can help your colleague, then let me know.

Best regards


Sehr geehrter Herr Forrest

Zuerst möchte ich Ihnen und Ihrer Familie die besten Wünsche zu den bevorstehenden Feiertagen wünschen, und ebenso alle guten Wünsche für das neue Jahr.
Hoffen wir, dass alle unsere Wünsche in Erfüllung gehen.

Als sporadischer Besucher ihres Forums fand ich einen Bericht über das Krick Boot Typ 6.
Ich selbst besitze seit vielen Jahren solch ein Boot, allerdings habe ich die ursprüngliche Variante, die in den 1960 er damals noch von Schuco-Hegi hergestellt wurde. Mein Modell hatte damals eine Hülle, die aus einen Stück Holz gefräst war. Kurze Zeit später stellte Schuco-Hegi die Produktion ein. Viele Jahre vergingen, bis dann Krick dieses Modell wieder in das Programm aufgenommen hat. Ab dieser Zeit wurde das Modell in Schichtbauweise geliefert. Diese Schichtbretter waren in der Fabrik ausgesägt und wurden zusammengeleimt.
Mit einem vorgefertigten (gefrästen) Deckel aus Buchensperrholz wurde über zwei lange Gewindestangen und Rändelmuttern die Öffnung des Rumpfes verschlossen.
Das Oberdeck war aus ABS geformt und mit Schlitzen versehen. Aber das kennt der Kollege ja aus eigener Anschauung.

Wenn Sie meinen, dass einige weitere unmaßgebliche Tipps dem Kollegen helfen können, dann lassen Sie es mich wissen.

today i have test the seal as is cleaned everything and the results are good i have done it in my bath with warm water
so the whole sub will warm up and the air inside will expand i have it hold down fore several minutes and there where no bubbels coming out and when i opend the hatch it was stil dry inside so time to build in the electronics put some ballast in and make it up for his maiden trip
regards rob

Hi Rob (and thank you Hein)!

Hein has just sent me a scan of the original instructions for the U25 by Hegi.

If you pm me your email address I will send you a copy.

Happy New Year to one and all!

David

david f wrote:Hi Rob (and thank you Hein)!

Hein has just sent me a scan of the original instructions for the U25 by Hegi.

If you pm me your email address I will send you a copy.

Happy New Year to one and all!

David

thak you Hein for sharing your drawings

Happy New Year to one and all
regards rob

Hein's pdf file just emailed to you Rob.

(Tim is looking to put the files up on our website also. They are old now so I can't see any copyright problems.)

David

The instructions are now on the AMS website here:

http://associationofmodelsubmariners.com/pages/Files/u25.pdf

Have a great 2017!