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    Post  acrowot (Geof) Tue Jan 08, 2013 11:58 pm

    Hi to every one
    well 20 years after my first attempt at making my first little fun sub which was a success and will get a refit before the summer and my scratch built HMS Resolution sinking to the bottom of the bath and had more leaks then a colander and now lives in the loft with no hope I have decided to build another sub and hoping to get into subs in a more dedicated way.
    my dear wife bought me the revel u–boat for Christmas 2 years ago but I did not know where to get a wtc from then I was pointed in the direction of MMB models who was very helpful making me the WTC 50mm in diameter and 300mm long and the water tight push rods small prop shafts and solid couplings for the motor all for £60 posted so with no more excuses I have started to build it over Christmas.
    I am going to build it as a dynamic diving sub so please if anyone thinks I’m going wrong some were please feel free to comment
    I must say it is quite nice building a plastic kit takes me back a very long way building airfix kits when I was a kid.
    The pictures below are the hull were I have cut drilled and filled over 300 holes one tip is it’s a lot easier to dremel with a sanding drum the back of the holes that are to be filled out take it easy not to melt and distort the plastic and not to sand all the way through and leave some plastic to file.
    holding the hull up to a light this helps to see how much plastic is left.

    Hope this building thread might be of interest many thanks geof
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    Post  acrowot (Geof) Wed Jan 09, 2013 12:12 am

    here we have the WTC 50mm in diameter and 300mm long plus the prop shafts with purple ends
    the purple ends show where the o ring is and this must be in the free flood area so the water keeps the o ring cool
    on the left side of the picture is the water tight push rod parts with a small o ring you pass your push rod through the end cap and tube fit the o ring then the last end cap
    last is the solid coupling this is 2mm to 2mm
    all this is hand made to order by MMB

    all the best geof
    Revell 1:72 VIIC u-boat Dscn6116
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    Post  profesorul Wed Jan 09, 2013 8:44 pm

    HI GEOF,
    I am watching!.No mater how many people has don the same thing because everyone has a different approach so Please keep as informed.

    MARIUS
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) Wed Jan 09, 2013 9:23 pm

    Nice one Geof...looking good.
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    Post  acrowot (Geof) Wed Jan 09, 2013 10:47 pm

    Thanks guys for the kind comments
    I just received my FUTABA 6EX PCM 1024 6CHANNEL RADIO when I opened the box I could not believe it they put in a receiver as well with crystals as well all for £38.00 posted
    all I had to do was make a rocker arm for the spring so the throttle stick was like the elevator stick
    has any one used a futaba R156F receiver the reson I ask it says in the instructions that its for park flyers and only got a range of 500 feet seems a little short for a submarine
    its nice and small to fit into the WTC hope I can use it
    Richard i hope your resting them fingers and your on the mend
    cheers geof
    Revell 1:72 VIIC u-boat Dscn6117
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) Thu Jan 10, 2013 9:23 am

    You'll have no troubles with that rx, Geof...I had one identical to that in the Dragonfish, and later in the little Kilo, no problems whatsoever.

    And as for resting the fingers...of course I am.
    Revell 1:72 VIIC u-boat Male3110
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    Post  acrowot (Geof) Thu Jan 10, 2013 1:10 pm

    thanks richard i will use in confidence its a perfect size for the u-boat
    geof
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    Post  acrowot (Geof) Fri Jan 18, 2013 10:17 pm

    Hi to you all
    Now I have sat down long enough I have posted some pictures of the conning tower showing the drain holes that I have drilled on the deck and then painted over Christmas still got to do the weathering when I finish the rest of the sub
    Has anyone got any advice on doing rust streaks as I think it brings the model alive?
    I’m Looking to get some servos for the sub do you think micro servos be alright if so how small can I go?
    Sorry the build is slow I am trying to build the model as well as trying to sort out my late mum and dad’s estate but we are making progress I will try and take more photos this weekend to bring the build up to date if you can keep me and my son of the sledge this weekend ha ha
    All the best geof
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) Sat Jan 19, 2013 8:56 am

    My Deep Quest (aka the Jelly Bean) has 9g micro servos for the rear planes and the steering nozzle, Geoff...the Dragonfish had 9g micro servos for rudders and planes, the Kilo had 5g micro servos for rudder and planes, and I never had a problem with any of them.

    I'd go for these for your Type V11, should be more than powerful enough...
    CLICKY And look at the price...practically giving them away.


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    Post  acrowot (Geof) Sat Jan 19, 2013 12:26 pm

    thanks richard just been down to my local model shop and bought 2 new power 9 gram servos and a micro viper marine 10 speed control just need 2 prop tubes and couplings trying to work out what ones would be better to make the WTC easyer to put in and take out
    geof

    p.s dont give up on the skipjack
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) Sat Jan 19, 2013 1:26 pm

    That's always a tricky bit Geoff...I think I'd go for two short stub shafts through the wtc end cap, then a pair of couplings, then the two main shafts down to the props. That way you only have two grub screws in the stub shaft couplings to loosen off in order to be able to remove the wtc.

    Or just use plastic tube as a coupling, that's what I did in the Dragonfish, it worked a treat.

    And thanks for the kind words mate, I was having a bad day yesterday...high pain levels and frustration, I don't handle very well. I'll not give up on the boat, fear not.
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    Post  acrowot (Geof) Thu Jan 31, 2013 1:12 am

    Hi I thought I would give you all a little update I must say using a pillar drill and a calliper to measure tubes and things does make life a lot easier one little trick I have found is when you have to wipe of any resin use baby wipes makes me worry what they do to baby’s skin.

    Here below is a link to Dave manning’s conversion of the revel U-boat there are some very good ideas some of these will be used on mine
    http://www.modelboats.co.uk/news/article/dynamic-diving/520/

    The first photo is where I have cut the side out of the hull to make it a lot easier to get the WTC in and out plus I have large hands and would be very fiddly.
    The cut line is under the ballast tank to try and hide as much of the cut as possible with a little bit of milliput filler and paint it should not be to noticeable I hope

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    Another idea I have used is enlarging the front planes so it will dive a lot easier not scale I know but models should run as good as it looks.
    To make these I got the original front planes and stuck them in my photo copier at work and enlarged them up to141% then stuck the copy onto 1mm styrene sheet then cut them out.
    Once we have the tops and bottoms of the planes made up I then made a small jig out of balsa to hold everything in place.

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    On the jig I put 2 small pieces of plastic at each end just thick enough to curve the bottom sheet up when I clamped and glued the shaft down if you have done the maths right when the top sheet is put on it should be symmetrical just glue the top sheet to the ends and shaft see photos it should make sense

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    Once this is done just fill the middle with milliput then sand smooth

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    take care geof
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    Post  acrowot (Geof) Thu Feb 07, 2013 11:32 pm

    Here’s a little update the sub is moving on nicely but slowly I have now finished the rear hydroplanes and the bulkheads.

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    I have added an extra bulk head the brown one is made of thick Perspex and sits behind the original rear bulkhead to add some extra strength when putting in and removing the WTC

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    The photo below is the fitting of the rear hydroplane and control arm you can see a blue pen line this is the area were you have got to open up both sides of the hull so the control arm can move freely once done you then have to add two brass bushes to both side of the hull

    Revell 1:72 VIIC u-boat Dscn6212

    The front hydroplane and control arm is a straight forward affair just adding the bushes to the sides of the hull all control shafts i.e. hydroplanes and rudders are approximately 3/32 and tube to suit

    Revell 1:72 VIIC u-boat Dscn6213

    With all that done you can the fit the hull together with the extra bulkhead fitted now I have got to try and refit the removable side panel could be fun

    Revell 1:72 VIIC u-boat Dscn6214

    Take care geof

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    Post  acrowot (Geof) Mon Feb 11, 2013 11:16 pm

    Well this weekend I have been messing about with the rudders and I must say I’m quite pleased how it’s gone the hardest part was drilling the rudders straight with more luck than judgment it worked out so I glued them in with 24hr Araldite quick ha ha.

    The brass work was a nice change from balsa wood i used 2 brass collets and brass sheet and made three control horns two horns to link the rudders together with a small push rod and one horn to link the servo.

    Revell 1:72 VIIC u-boat Dscn6210

    Inside the hull I add the rudder shafts then epoxyed them in place
    after a trial fit of the rudder assembly I found I had to thin down the inside of the hull where the two parallel horns touch the hull side the trick is to use a dremel holding the hull to a strong light you can see how thin the plastic is as you sand it away.

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    It is a bit of fiddle trimming here and filling there to get the two parrallel horns in so they have enough movement got there in the end

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    Till the next bit take care geof
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    Post  david f Tue Feb 12, 2013 11:27 am

    That's nice.
    Twin rudders are awkward things to fit in and make.

    David
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) Tue Feb 12, 2013 11:50 am

    You should try the X tails on my Steve Neill U-212 class, they drove me to insanity!
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    Post  acrowot (Geof) Wed Feb 13, 2013 12:06 pm

    thanks for the knid words twin rudders were a little fiddly but fun and richard as for those x tails ive been watching them on videos i cant seem to work out what there doing never mind trying to mix them one a transmitter

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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) Wed Feb 13, 2013 12:15 pm

    What drove me mad with the things was the lack of access, Geoff...trying to persuade a length of brass wire into the connector and hold it all in place at the same time in that tiny stern cone was virtually impossible, especially with my big fingers.

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    Post  acrowot (Geof) Thu Feb 21, 2013 8:07 pm

    well a quick up date i have nearly finished the side hatch that i cut out of the hull it was a bit time consuming but im very pleased the way it came out just got to do a little bit more filling to do the it a done
    the side is held on with 3 plastic tabs then just sloted in

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    richard a little while ago i asked you about using HITEC receivers with a futaba transmitter and you were saying there might be a range problem.
    well i found 3 genuine hitec 8 channel dual conversion ones for £5.99 each in a sale at SMC models SMC said that they work on futaba or hitec transmitters so i thought what have a got to lose so i bought all 3 thinking if they dont work ill put them on ebay
    so far using a futaba crystal in the transmitter and a hitec crystal in the reciever things look good with transmitter arial down and the receiver arial coiled up i got 50 feet no problems at all i ran out of space.
    so i will put it into a boat and see what happens

    the next job it fitting the prop shafts but im of to london with the family for 2 night so it wont be till next week

    till then take care geof
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) Fri Feb 22, 2013 9:36 am

    I always used to just scrunch the aerial lead up and stuff it wherever it would fit!

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    Post  david f Fri Feb 22, 2013 4:30 pm

    I am pretty sure that I have used Hitec Dual Conversion Rx's with Futaba Tx's with no problems in the past. Dual conversion Rx's are well worth having because of interference rejection. A very good purchase , I would say.

    David
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    Post  salmon Fri Feb 22, 2013 7:08 pm

    I keep looking at how you opened the side. I think it is really interesting! Is that a common way to open this sub? I have seen David Merriman open it from the deck and squeezing the WTC in.
    This is really good stuff!


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    Post  acrowot (Geof) Fri Feb 22, 2013 9:42 pm

    Hi David we used hitec receivers with futaba transmitters on the planes no problem and as.you rightly pointed out the dual conversion receivers are very good with removing interfence

    salmon thanks for the kind coment i came across the idea of removing the side of the hull from a article in model boats so i can't take credit
    its cut out in such a way that the WTC slips in and out so easy plus there's plenty of room to remove the couplings and push rods from the WTC
    i cut the side out with a Stanley knife to keep it as tidy as i could.
    I will take a photo of WTC in place when i get home
    take care geof
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    Post  profesorul Sat Feb 23, 2013 4:02 pm

    HI GEOF,

    And do You think is possible to make ashort video to explain whit You guest sad?.

    THANKS

    MARIUS
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    Post  acrowot (Geof) Sun Feb 24, 2013 10:30 pm

    Hi marius now im back from a weekend in london i will fit the front support for the WTC then i will do a short video for you
    many thanks geof

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