Rich's TYPHOON Scale 1:150

Hi I thought I would start this thread as I will be buying KMB Submarine TYPHOON Scale 1:150 When Paypal release my funds, I just need some help on some component's as I am a bit unsure on what I need.

Motor x2
What size would I need? two 550 as the boat is 1170 mm or bigger motors?

Battery
I know this is depent on the size of the motors

Thanks guys

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I am not familiar with this sub but what do KMB suggest? Failing that I suggest you follow what somebody else has already done. Keep it all nice and simple if this is your first sub.

(BTW have you completely ruled out Sheerline, they are well thought out and everything is there - and no I don't get commission!)

Thanks for the food for thought guys

I have spoken to Ramesh about the model as he has own one but never built it, he has given me some idears he suggested the MFA 385 5pole motor on dirct drive on 3s Lipo or 10 cell NiMH.

I will be running 12 volt as I need it for the ballast system on a water pump. I will nave watertight box as it is my first build.

As for the props I found these guys and it looks like they know what they are doin when it comes to props
http://www.prop-shop.co.uk/index.php?id=35&section=store&sub_section=products&product_type=35

Thanks Rich

I am just buying a few bits till paypal gives me my refund so I can get my hull I have just bought a few things to get me started

MFA RE-385 5-Pole DC Motor 2
Plain Coupling Insert 2.3mm
Lead Acid Battery 12V 7AH Dimensions approx. 152x65x94mm ( it will fit had to look at the sepc of the hull )
MFA Titan 12V Lead Acid charger
Lead Acid Battery Spade

I cant buy th prop yet as I dont know what size I need ie the length as I havent got my hull yet

That all sounds like good advice from Ramesh.

Personally I prefer 3 to 1 reduction but presumably those motors are quite low revs anyway.

The props you can play around with quite a lot. Maybe try cheaper plastic props initially then replace with similar metal ones. (Yes, Prop Shop are great and do lovely ones but you don't want too many expensive metal props rattling around the spares box!)

Have fun and don't hit the credit card too much all at once! Subs take a bit of time to build and you can buy some things as you go along, altkough you are spot on getting the drive and battery sorted early.

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Finally found your thread Rich.
I tracked this friendly chap who was making props for the Typhoon when I had the kit. http://www.rc-sub-workshop.com/8propellers.html
Hes now got a fancy website and calling them Seawolf props, as I guess Trumpeter sell plenty of those kits. I am pretty sure he did them in Left hand and Right hand versions at the time , so you may want to enquire (Though its not really necessary to get handed props)

The KMB Typhoon isn't 100% accurate. The props need to be closer to 32mm to be right but only 25mm ones fit in the kit knozzels. So you could make larger knozzels and get larger props from elsewhere if you like but I remember thinking at the time it would take too much surgery to be worthwhile.

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The props you can play around with quite a lot. Maybe try cheaper plastic props initially then replace with similar metal ones.

Thanks for the post guys, more things to think about, gearing may be needed then on these motors, I have found this 2:1 gear box
HERE

Are these any good as it was the only one I could find? I would perfer to do this right the first time!

Thanks

I am glad you came to that conclusion too!

I think you would be better off with some reduction. Props and motors work better that way and it is kinder to shaft seals.

I have used the gearbox you indicate in both my Charlie Class and Holland subs. They are quite good but can be a bit noisy and take up a bit of space.

You may also have a look at the MFA motors with integral gearboxes.

Nigel introduced them to me and I have used them ever since. I think you can get one of them with the motor you have in mind. Some of the advantages are that an integral gearbox is much easier to use and fit in. If you want to change the ratio the new motor and gearbox will fit in the same space without wrecking your boat.

I think that you are converging on a solution!

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2.5/1 is fine,
950 D SERIES (385 MOTOR)=4.5 TO 15 VOLT, @4.5VOLT=1890RPM,6V=2520,9V=3375,12V=5040,15V=6300RPM.

919 D SERIES (540 MOTOR)=4.5 TO 15 VOLT, @4.5VOLT=2250RPM,6V=3000,9V=4500,12V=6300,15V=7900RPM.

BOTH THESE UNITS ARE AVAILABLE IN RATIO'S FROM 2.5/1 TO 3000/1

HIGH SPEED MOTORS WITHOUT GEARBOXES ARE ABOUT AS MUCH GOOD AS A CHOCOLATE TEAPOT ON A SUBMARINE,THEY BOIL THE WATER ON THE TIPS OF THE PROP (CAVITATE)AND KILL THE BATTERY IN NO TIME,THE SHAPE OF MOST SUBMARINES RESTRICTS THE FLOW OF WATER TO THE PROP,KEEP THE REV'S DOWN AND ADJUST THE PITCH OF THE PROP TO GIVE YOU THE SPEED YOU REQUIRE.

I generally use around 6/1 on a single prop boat, although I have a feeling that I fitted a 11/1 on the Holland,which Andy now has, on the X craft I fitted 6/1, on my type 205 its a 6/1,on the turtle its 50/1 but thats a very low speed boat, I allways run 7.2 to 8.4 volt, the run time is very high on the 205 it is upwards of 6 hrs,and I have never blown up a speed controler in weeds,as you certainly would be likely to do if you have no gearbox.

It has just occurred to me that the video in my U uPVC build log could give you some guidance.

There you will see a 44 inch hull being driven by 2 of Nigel's recommended motors (950Ds) but at 6:1 ratio.

On that day I was using a 3 cell Lipo (2 amp hour or thereabouts) which had at least 30 minutes duration. (I sometimes use a 4 a amp hour lead acid outside the WTC also.)

The speed you see is about right for a WW2 boat, in my opinion. A Nuke should be a little faster, perhaps.

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I am sure you are correct,I will defer to your vast knowledge.
I haven't been building and sailing submarines very long.

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I think it would largly depend on the prop,what dia is it, how many blade's,roughly what pitch, personally I would look at replacing the prop, with a water screw, this would load the motor up more than a normal prop but the load and run time can be adjusted by both the dia of the screw and to some extent the pitch,I would look at the graupner range of carbon fillament water screws.