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* THE FORUM FOR ALL THOSE INTERESTED IN BUILDING AND OPERATING MODEL SUBMARINES *



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    3D printed sub kits

    Deep Diver (Fred)
    Deep Diver (Fred)
    AMS member


    Posts : 264
    Join date : 2010-11-07
    Age : 74
    Location : Peacehaven East Sussex

    3D printed sub kits Empty 3D printed sub kits

    Post  Deep Diver (Fred) Tue Mar 31, 2020 8:34 am

    I was having a look on one of the other forums and I cam across this, it is a site for 3d printed sub's https://www.rc-submarine.com/3d-cad-files-for-subs

    Fred
    david f
    david f
    AMS Treasurer


    Posts : 2268
    Join date : 2010-11-10
    Age : 72
    Location : Cumbria

    3D printed sub kits Empty Re: 3D printed sub kits

    Post  david f Thu Apr 02, 2020 10:40 am

    3D printing is looking like the future for our hobby.

    Nautilus Drydocks are a well established company. I see that they have a positive review over on Facebook and a daily workshop log over on Subcommittee.

    Our own Facebook site has a thread looking at a product for another company doing this at the moment:

    https://www.rcsubs.cz/index.php

    Later edit: They are offering Nautilus Drydocks 3D designs - can someone explain the link?

    My only reservation is how well does the (commonly used) PLA material last? My own experiences have been very positive with using relatively small parts for my submarines over the last 2 or 3 years. I haven't had any problems with the relatively low melting point of PLA but I live in Northern England which is not renowned for heat!

    I would think that even PLA is better than plastic kit conversions which always seem a bit fragile.

    Maybe I'm rough when I operate my subs but you always have the problem that with a wet sub you have a lot of momentum from the enclosed mass of water. Certainly glassfibre lasts really well, can put up with a lot of hard treatment and can be repaired easily.
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    3D printed sub kits Empty Re: 3D printed sub kits

    Post  Guest Fri May 08, 2020 6:42 am

    PLA should hold up fine. As long as a good wall thickness is used there should not be a problem of water seeping through microscopic cracks in the print. I think the thing to watch out for most is direct sunlight, as mentioned. PLA will start to warp at 50-ish degrees or so (for example in a car on a sunny day). Especially parts that have en open profile without bracing, Like a “U” or “C”.

    Alternatively one can use PETG, which I believe handles heat better but might be less rigid, like a plastic bottle. For things that need to take some force ABS is probably the way to go, unless one has won the lottery and have the possibility to print Carbon fiber materials. Actually, come to think about it, there is Carbon fiber infused PLA for even stronger prints.

    3D printing has its limitations, which one can overcome with some smart thinking and some good designs, and it definitely has its place in the hobby. Will it make other processes obsolete, I doubt it. It is a powerful tool that is for sure. Anything from small parts to jigs for other manufacturing processes to entire subs.

    BR

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