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* THE FORUM FOR ALL THOSE INTERESTED IN BUILDING AND OPERATING MODEL SUBMARINES *



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For further details of any events shown here also see the "Shows and Events" section on the forum

*HOPING FOR A BETTER 2021 AND MORE OF THESE EXCELLENT FREE EVENTS ALL AROUND THE COUNTRY!

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CANCELLED because of coronavirus. Papplewick Pumping Station, Nottingham, Sunday 12th & Monday 13th April
CANCELLED because of coronavirus. Bournville Sub Day, Sunday 10th May 2020

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(CANCELLED) Submarine, Boating & Sailing Weekend, Norwich MBC, Weekend of 25,26th July

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Model Boat Convention, Haydock Park (Cancelled this year)

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CANCELLED. Bournville Sub Day, Sunday 13th September

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(CANCELLED) Club Submarine Regatta, Furness MBC, Barrow in Furness, Sunday 20th Sept 2020

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Latest topics

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» Pinger 3 - Distance measurement (Triangulation, Transponders and Clocks on Board)
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Our users have posted a total of 11252 messages in 1842 subjects

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The newest registered user is druiz100

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    BuxtonRob

    Posts : 18
    Join date : 2017-12-21
    Location : Derbyshire

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    Post  BuxtonRob on Tue Jan 16, 2018 2:59 pm

    I am attempting to convert a Revell Type IX U Boat to RC.

    I have a 385 brushed motor and a (handed) pair of Raboesch 25mm diameter 3 blade props.

    What rpm range should I be looking for for the props? I assume i will need a reduction gearbox (from max 11,000 according to the motor box). So what reduction ratio do I need?

    Thanks for any advice.
    david f
    david f
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    Posts : 2137
    Join date : 2010-11-10
    Age : 70
    Location : Cumbria

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    Post  david f on Thu Jan 18, 2018 9:54 am

    I always like to have 2:1 to 3:1 reduction in motors. (It limits current draw and is generally best if your props have the (usual) coarse pitch.

    Others would disagree with this particularly when brushless motors are used. (i.e they use direct drive.)

    Have you had a look at MFA como motors and gearboxes? A very good range and good service and they save a lot of grief doing gearboxes:

    https://www.theassociationofmodelsubmariners.com/t1400-mfa-como-drillls-motorsgearboxes-and-belt-drives?highlight=motors

    You also ask about gearboxes out in the water. I have never tried this but I think that David Merriman and Norbert Bruggen offer them. Seems like a good idea.
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    BuxtonRob

    Posts : 18
    Join date : 2017-12-21
    Location : Derbyshire

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    Post  BuxtonRob on Thu Jan 18, 2018 11:32 am

    Thanks very much for that. I think it will be the MFA 2.5:1 geared 385 motor in the WTC and just the 1:1 drive to twin shafts from the single motor output in the wet area.
    david f
    david f
    AMS Treasurer

    Posts : 2137
    Join date : 2010-11-10
    Age : 70
    Location : Cumbria

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    Post  david f on Thu Jan 18, 2018 2:57 pm

    That should be fine. Without having done it, I would think that the wet 1:1 drive will be OK. (Slower running so not too much water turbulence & friction)

    Using MFA gearboxes means that you can change ratios fairly easily too. Nigel has a post on here also about incorporating a shaft seal into the gearbox. (I haven't tried it.)

    About a 3D printed O ring fit - I don't know either. I'm old school (lathe!). Tim G is exploring this technology.

    There are some very good tips here on sliding O ring fit (one from John Redearth particularly.):

    https://www.theassociationofmodelsubmariners.com/t537p125-piston-ballast-systems?highlight=piston+tanks

    Andy L has a video on lathe machining WTC caps somewhere. Post on the Dive-In Facebook site and he will let you know, I'm sure.

    David

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    BuxtonRob

    Posts : 18
    Join date : 2017-12-21
    Location : Derbyshire

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    Post  BuxtonRob on Thu Jan 18, 2018 6:48 pm

    I have achieved a 'close sliding fit' for a 3d printed end cap, after some trial and error, and now have a version with an O ring fitted which looks as though it is compressing uniformly all round. I have come close to the 85% groove depth by blind chance.

    I haven't tested for actual watertightness yet as my 'trial fit' end caps were printed as hollow, to save filament until a reasonable fit looks OK. Of course, now I have run out of the filament I used so need to order some more.

    Don't have a lathe or the skills to use one, so 3D printing it is.
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    tsenecal
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    Post  tsenecal on Tue Jan 30, 2018 4:49 pm

    BuxtonRob wrote:I have achieved a 'close sliding fit' for a 3d printed end cap, after some trial and error, and now have a version with an O ring fitted which looks as though it is compressing uniformly all round. I have come close to the 85% groove depth by blind chance.

    I haven't tested for actual watertightness yet as my 'trial fit' end caps were printed as hollow, to save filament until a reasonable fit looks OK. Of course, now I have run out of the filament I used so need to order some more.

    Don't have a lathe or the skills to use one, so 3D printing it is.

    one suggestion i would make is to print using a higher temp filament than PLA... you don't say which type of filament you are using, but PLA's glass temp is too low for my comfort...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTswoDnxYHs

    i have switched to PETG as the filament i use for anything that is going to be used directly. for items that will become masters for molds, i will use PLA.
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    BuxtonRob

    Posts : 18
    Join date : 2017-12-21
    Location : Derbyshire

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    Post  BuxtonRob on Tue Jan 30, 2018 8:28 pm

    Using ASA for this. Can be acetone smoothed (which should give a watertight skin) and can be glued with polystyrene cement, so can be glued to the kit parts as necessary.

      Current date/time is Sun Jan 24, 2021 3:36 am