I have been making some progress with using this module, which has given me problems in the past. The key thing is to make sure that you run the calibration routine for the Arduino regularly. (Not getting the full 0 to 360 degrees is a sure sign of this.)
I have installed the LSM303 with its own Arduino and 16x2 LCD screen in a "water tight" box:

The watertight box is something of an overkill but it was good 3D printer practise! (It still needs an epoxy resin coating for water-tightness.)
The compass reading goes as an i2c interface to the telemetry (also gives depth and battery voltage) Arduino via a 1m cable. (Still getting some transmission problems with this. Garbage appears on the screen after a few seconds.)
David
I have installed the LSM303 with its own Arduino and 16x2 LCD screen in a "water tight" box:

The watertight box is something of an overkill but it was good 3D printer practise! (It still needs an epoxy resin coating for water-tightness.)
The compass reading goes as an i2c interface to the telemetry (also gives depth and battery voltage) Arduino via a 1m cable. (Still getting some transmission problems with this. Garbage appears on the screen after a few seconds.)
David
» Flight controllers as sub levelers
» Bournville 2023
» Raspberry Pi Pico + ePaper display hat
» WW2 mini sub build
» Help with 1:48 scale WW2 German U boat
» Problem with Futaba FX-30 and 40 MHz module
» Resurgam, Nordenfelts II & IV - George Garrett's works.
» Letter to BMFA to request the sharing of the 35MHz frequency for model subs in the UK.