Home
Register
Log in
How the heck do I drill a hole through the width of this resin casting? It has to be perfectly level and square because it's for the dive vane operating shaft.
Who is online?
In total there are 4 users online :: 0 Registered, 0 Hidden and 4 Guests
None
Most users ever online was 180 on Tue Nov 05, 2019 6:03 am
Latest topics
Search
Most Viewed Topics
Statistics
Our users have posted a total of 11163 messages in 1829 subjects
We have 865 registered users
The newest registered user is vmax1701a
Drilling a vertical hole
Tom(ADMIN)- AMS Forum Owner
- Posts : 2999
Join date : 2010-11-05
Age : 60
Location : Nevada, USA
david f- AMS Treasurer
- Posts : 2115
Join date : 2010-11-10
Age : 70
Location : Cumbria
Do you have a pillar drill, Richard?
Tom(ADMIN)- AMS Forum Owner
- Posts : 2999
Join date : 2010-11-05
Age : 60
Location : Nevada, USA
I only have a hand operated drill David, all that sort of thing was sold off by first wife's solicitors...the complete contents of my workshop/two sheds/garage...all gone.
The only power tool I own now is a cordless screwdriver...
The only power tool I own now is a cordless screwdriver...
andyn- Guest
- Posts : 27
Join date : 2011-01-08
Age : 28
I'll do it for you if you like?
Tom(ADMIN)- AMS Forum Owner
- Posts : 2999
Join date : 2010-11-05
Age : 60
Location : Nevada, USA
Thank you Andy...bit of a rethink going on now. Apparently the original Bibers had the rudder and dive vane made from wood, so I'm contemplating replacing the cast ones with wooden ones, that way I can build in the operating rods as I go. I think...
I'll let you know mate..
I'll let you know mate..
david f- AMS Treasurer
- Posts : 2115
Join date : 2010-11-10
Age : 70
Location : Cumbria
You could do it carefully with a hand drill.
Clamp the vane square on a table and squint along the hand drill as you do it.
Clamp the vane square on a table and squint along the hand drill as you do it.
Tom(ADMIN)- AMS Forum Owner
- Posts : 2999
Join date : 2010-11-05
Age : 60
Location : Nevada, USA
I had thought of that David, but it would be a last resort.
I now have two choices, I think...either go scale and make a wooden rudder/dive vane, or get Mark(MMB)to cast me a completely new resin dive vane with the operating rod built in.
Decisions, decisions...
I now have two choices, I think...either go scale and make a wooden rudder/dive vane, or get Mark(MMB)to cast me a completely new resin dive vane with the operating rod built in.
Decisions, decisions...
Tom(ADMIN)- AMS Forum Owner
- Posts : 2999
Join date : 2010-11-05
Age : 60
Location : Nevada, USA
Just had a very interesting email from Harry Brash regarding this:
This is his solution (he had problems uploadng pictures) so I've posted this on his behalf.
"Hi Richard
I've just spent 45min trying to reply to your post re drilling a hole. I just couldn't get it to accept two photos.
My approach to your problem is to create a jig. If you look at attached "PCB Spacer" I have soldered a 6BA untapped spacer to a piece of PCB. You have to press down on the spacer when soldering to make sure of good contact.
Then in "Drilled" see the clamped test piece of perspex which I drilled through - electric hand drill with test piece and jig held in vice. In this case it was a 3mm drill, the test piece was 300mm wide by 6mm thick and the hole 'drifted' about 0.5mm from one side to the other. Probably do better if not drilling perspex.
Obviously you can use whatever is available to make the jig as long as the drill fits the spacer/tubing very well. The good thing is that you can try it out as often as you like before you drill the one bit that matters."
Many thanks for that Harry, much appreciated and a simple idea.
This is his solution (he had problems uploadng pictures) so I've posted this on his behalf.
"Hi Richard
I've just spent 45min trying to reply to your post re drilling a hole. I just couldn't get it to accept two photos.
My approach to your problem is to create a jig. If you look at attached "PCB Spacer" I have soldered a 6BA untapped spacer to a piece of PCB. You have to press down on the spacer when soldering to make sure of good contact.
Then in "Drilled" see the clamped test piece of perspex which I drilled through - electric hand drill with test piece and jig held in vice. In this case it was a 3mm drill, the test piece was 300mm wide by 6mm thick and the hole 'drifted' about 0.5mm from one side to the other. Probably do better if not drilling perspex.
Obviously you can use whatever is available to make the jig as long as the drill fits the spacer/tubing very well. The good thing is that you can try it out as often as you like before you drill the one bit that matters."
Many thanks for that Harry, much appreciated and a simple idea.
» Italian CB class from WW2
» Last event cancelled for 2020
» Simple telemetry system for openLRS (on 458Mhz)
» John Lambert Plans
» Piston Tank - Depth Control (Paper by Wolfgang Baumann & Helmut Huhn)
» Krick Type Vll B Wiring and build photos
» New Gyro On The Market
» PIC and Arduino microprocessors