Krick Type V11 U-Boat

willte wrote:that it  but  it could be how he floods his tank if I am right with the dive instructions if your filing pipe in the front of  ballast tank the bow goes down faster if in the aft the the stern goes down first slower dive

That would figure, I guess...so filling the tank from the middle may give you a level dive, then?



Richard

Dumas Akula Russian Nuclear Attack Submarine #1246
Dumas Akula, Radio Control Dynamic Diving Submarine Kit
there this one at MMB for £150 but I don't know what you get in the kit cheapest I have seen

I had a Dumas Akula ages ago, just before I became ill...horrible thing, never did like it. I sold it in the end, the guy that bought it from me sold it on, I don't know where it is now.

Richard(Admin) wrote:

willte wrote:that it  but  it could be how he floods his tank if I am right with the dive instructions if your filing pipe in the front of  ballast tank the bow goes down faster if in the aft the the stern goes down first slower dive

That would figure, I guess...so filling the tank from the middle may give you a level dive, then?



Richard

that a trickie one to answer

Richard(Admin) wrote:I'm not supposed to be building this yet, but I just had to have a look at the radio box...

By heck, Willie...that top half is a perishin' tight fit! My neighbours have learnt a few words this afternoon! But, it fitted in the end with some gentle persuasion...


r
ichard

I know but it makes a nice seal I put glue inside before the final fit and sealing with a bead of glue all the way around I used the krick glue that recommended in the instructions but I haven seen for a while it I was trying to get some more used to get it from CMB and if I remember right I put a slight taper on the out side top section not to much it's 5 year since I built mine

I'm wondering whether to install some baffles in the flood tank, and alter it to a central fill/empty position. That way the water wouldn't slosh around inside the tank, and I think you'd get a much leveller dive. I don't really know yet, that's something to play about with later.

Another alternative would be to replace the tank with a length of 60mm diameter tube, fit it exactly in the centre of the boat, and have a bag inside it. May be worth thinking about...

Richard

willte wrote:

Richard(Admin) wrote:I'm not supposed to be building this yet, but I just had to have a look at the radio box...

By heck, Willie...that top half is a perishin' tight fit! My neighbours have learnt a few words this afternoon! But, it fitted in the end with some gentle persuasion...


r
ichard

I know but it makes a nice seal I put  glue inside before the final fit and sealing with a bead of glue all the way around I used the krick glue that recommended in the instructions but I haven seen for a while  it I was trying to get some more used to get it from CMB and if I remember right I put a slight taper on the out side top section not to much it's 5 year since I built mine

I had to put a taper on mine to get the damn thing to fit!

Richard(Admin) wrote:I'm wondering whether to install some baffles in the flood tank, and alter it to a central fill/empty position. That way the water wouldn't slosh around inside the tank, and I think you'd get a much leveller dive. I don't really know yet, that's something to play about with later.

Another alternative would be to replace the tank with a length of 60mm diameter tube, fit it exactly in the centre of the boat, and have a bag inside it. May be worth thinking about...

Richard

just a segestion you could fit two tubes at one end one to go to the middle plug the one you don't use I have the tubes at each end I plug the one I don't use at the time with a blanking cap

Yes, that's another idea...I think I may assemble the tank during the week and play about with a few ideas, see what happens.


Richard

I was looking at one of your other post but it wont let me answer just now , its about your micro switches do you know how to run your pump two ways with only two wires coming from the switches and two wires from the battery

Oh yes, I've used microswitches for years, I prefer them for a pump over an electronic controller any day. I guess it's just what I'm used to, a lot of people use electronic controllers with great success, but I'm old fashioned...I'm told I'm an old fart. I agree!


Richard

and a lot cheaper and no set up

That's why I like them...plug 'em in and away you go. All that pushing buttons and twiddling sticks isn't for me...



Richard

I was thinking about what you said about filling the tank since I have 2 filling points connect the 2 with a " t" connector in the middle and fill boath ends at the same time

Got to be worth a try, Willie...



Richard

have you used magnetic switch and would they carry the currant need for the motors its to save opening up the w.t. its the type you hold the magnet and slide along I am thinking a bout

I've never used a magnetic switch, if using a box I normally cut a small access hole in the lid for switching on/off.



This is the radio box lid on my X-22, to turn the radio on/off all I did was to unscrew the red cap you can see and use a wooden sick to switch the radio on/off. It was the top of a fizzy drink bottle.

and you are asking me for help love the pipe work thank you for the tip, brain in gear thinking of some thing to work the switch I have instaled

Cheers Willie...that picture was taken about twenty five years ago. That was a dynamic diving boat, the new one I'm building will be a static dive version.

There's two or three other ways of getting to your on/off switch, give me a shout if you need any more ideas.

Richard.

Hi All

Is it me but does this not look like the old HFM type 7 ? 

In the new year will try and post some photos of my HFM 7 along with photos of the wtc that Alf Blake made for me out of an old rain pipe, 

Steve J and I spent the day with Harvey and Harvey made us a set of moldings each. I got mine for £45.00.

We had them on the club stand at IFOS 2000, and at the time of my sailing, my wife spotted the Red Arrows and missed me sailing.

The boat is still sailing to this day.

As far as I know, Fred, the Krick boat and the old HFM boat are miles apart. I think the Krick is a bigger boat, and the construction is totally different...they are both based on Type V11's, and that's about as close as it gets.



Richard

My hands are not cooperating this morning, so I've reopened the Krick box and had a real close study of it. There's no way I can make it look anything like a Flak boat, so I think I'll just built it as a generic Type V11 and leave it at that.

I have decided to use a cylinder instead of the radio box though, I've worked out that I can fit a 500mm length of 70mm diameter tube inside it, which is more than enough to install everything in.


I may use the supplied ballast pump to fill a bladder inside a tube, or I may go for an air system based on the old fashioned Darnell method, but using my small Koge air pump instead of the modified USE steam engine that Darnell used. It's a proven method, and I've used it many times before, so I'm quite happy to use it again.

As they say in all the best places...watch this space.


Richard

is this the type your speaking about Revell 1:72 - German Submarine Type IX C the one with out side tanks