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    WATER TIGHT COMPARTMENT

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    willte
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    WATER TIGHT COMPARTMENT

    Post  willte on Sun Dec 15, 2013 5:13 pm

    I had trouble trying to find 102mmx3mm thick plastic tube the only thing I could get in this size was aluminium tube at half the price of clear plastic what your view in using this
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    nigele(ADMIN)2
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    Re: WATER TIGHT COMPARTMENT

    Post  nigele(ADMIN)2 on Sun Dec 15, 2013 5:15 pm

    That should be fine,and welcome to the forum.
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    david f
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    Re: WATER TIGHT COMPARTMENT

    Post  david f on Mon Dec 16, 2013 9:25 am

    Welcome!

    Your pipe diameter is very close to grey PVC soil pipe. Which is my favourite material for WTCs. (Cheap, tough etc.)

    But aluminium will also be fine. I haven't seen it used, probably because of radio screening issues. You will need to run an external aerial for any receiver. You may also get an improvement for any other electrical interference effects because you are enclosing all the electronics in a water earthed Faraday screen.

    An external aerial shouldn't complicate things too much. You will need to lead it out of one end cap. Don't change its length.

    David

    Tom(ADMIN)
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    Re: WATER TIGHT COMPARTMENT

    Post  Tom(ADMIN) on Mon Dec 16, 2013 9:43 am

    And don't forget to seal the end of the aerial wire with a blob of epoxy or silicone sealant.


    Richard

    willte
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    Re: WATER TIGHT COMPARTMENT

    Post  willte on Mon Dec 16, 2013 10:00 am

    cheers DAVID
    I am using Robbe end caps with the aerial coming out of the centre hole the two holes for the control rods etc I am using for screw rod to hold the end caps to the tube about cutting the aerial I fitted a telescopic one to the sail if used I will cut the receiver one till I get the same length will put up a few pictures when I figure how to do it
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    profesorul
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    Re: WATER TIGHT COMPARTMENT

    Post  profesorul on Mon Dec 16, 2013 10:23 am

    willte wrote:cheers DAVID
    I am using Robbe end  caps with the aerial coming out of the centre hole the two holes for the control rods etc I am using for screw rod to hold the end caps to the tube about cutting the aerial I fitted a telescopic one to the sail if used I will cut the receiver one till I get the same length will put up a few pictures when I figure how to do it

    You should check if those modification of the antenna is changing frequency and / or impedance and may be not work !.
    Before You cut the original antena of the receiver !.
    My Opinion.
    And Welcome to the forum

    MARIUS

    willte
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    Re: WATER TIGHT COMPARTMENT

    Post  willte on Mon Dec 16, 2013 12:10 pm

    when I built the sea wolf it has a whip aerial the instruction say to cut off the wire aerial the same length as the whip to keep the frequency which I did no problem when sailing so I assume the same for telescopic but may be wrong
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    nigele(ADMIN)2
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    Re: WATER TIGHT COMPARTMENT

    Post  nigele(ADMIN)2 on Mon Dec 16, 2013 12:33 pm

    are you running only on the surface,you cannot use a metal aerial underwater.

    willte
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    Re: WATER TIGHT COMPARTMENT

    Post  willte on Mon Dec 16, 2013 12:46 pm

    the sea wolf dives very well and the whip aerial disappears under water and its piano bare wire its about 500mm long
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    nigele(ADMIN)2
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    Re: WATER TIGHT COMPARTMENT

    Post  nigele(ADMIN)2 on Mon Dec 16, 2013 1:12 pm

    DON'T TRY THAT WITH A STATIC DIVING BOAT,IF YOU DO YOU WILL BE GOING HOME ALONE.
    there is no need to use anthing other than the receiver aerial cable with the end sealed.

    Tom(ADMIN)
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    Re: WATER TIGHT COMPARTMENT

    Post  Tom(ADMIN) on Mon Dec 16, 2013 1:39 pm

    As Nigel says, do not cut aerial wires and do not use a bare metal wire aerial with a static dive boat.

    You have three options here:

    (1) either simply coil the aerial wire up and literally just stuff it wherever it fits out of harms way in the tube

    Or

    (2) cut a piece of styrene sheet and drill a series of holes along both sides, and thread the aerial wire through the holes. A piece of insulation tape to hold the coils in place, and you have what's called an ''aerial comb''. Again, put the comb somewhere in the tube out of harms way (under the equipment tray is as good a place as any) and you're good to go.

    Or

    (3) run the aerial wire out of the tube and lay it in loose coils along the length of the boat, having first sealed the end with a drop of epoxy or silicone sealant.

    If you use a bare wire aerial on a dynamic dive boat, you'll find your diving depth severely limited, to maybe 12'' at the most before the boat will lose it's signal from the tx.

    I'm no expert, but I've used all three of these methods over the years, and they all work well.


    Richard

    willte
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    Re: WATER TIGHT COMPARTMENT

    Post  willte on Mon Dec 16, 2013 3:01 pm

    I don't do static would not try it in the pond I use its an old stone quarry the pond filled up when they stop using it I know there 3 cars in the bottom of it, they tried to fill it in when they change the air base runways from concrete to tarmac with the concrete slabs left a nice lauching platform they gave up and turned it in to a picnic area its a very good size of pond even for very fast boats to get to full speed which I have done with my torpedo boat fitted with a 46 marine diesel, a just below surface dive will do me nicely the pond is said to be about 30 feet deep

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