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Most users ever online was 180 on Tue Nov 05, 2019 6:03 am

Latest topics

» upgrading the SSY 1/96 ALFA kit
Two tier wtc? EmptyWed Nov 20, 2019 3:05 am by merriman

» Beck's model marine
Two tier wtc? EmptyWed Nov 13, 2019 6:27 pm by Beck’s model marine

» Beck’s model marine
Two tier wtc? EmptyWed Nov 13, 2019 9:16 am by Beck’s model marine

» The SubDriver becomes Modular
Two tier wtc? EmptyTue Nov 12, 2019 5:28 pm by merriman

» Industrial display of COLLINS control-room
Two tier wtc? EmptyMon Nov 11, 2019 2:04 pm by merriman

» German Hecht XXVIIA in 1/17 scale
Two tier wtc? EmptyTue Nov 05, 2019 3:48 am by george jure

» the hermetically sealed class 206A submarine
Two tier wtc? EmptyFri Nov 01, 2019 10:36 pm by salmon

» 1:120 Spanish S-80 submarine
Two tier wtc? EmptyMon Oct 21, 2019 6:47 pm by Radioman

» Bournville - September 2019
Two tier wtc? EmptyMon Oct 07, 2019 9:14 am by david f

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    Two tier wtc?

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    Tom(ADMIN)
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    Two tier wtc? Empty Two tier wtc?

    Post  Tom(ADMIN) on Wed Nov 13, 2013 10:09 am

    Before I get too far involved with this cylinder, someone tell me that this will work...a two tier tray system. It will alleviate my main problem with cylinders...trying to get everything inside the things.

    The plan is to attach the control board for the water pump and the auto leveller upside down on the top tray, that will then give me more room on the bottom tray for the rx, motor esc, etc. The stern tray can then have the ballast pump and the rudder and planes servos attached to it.


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    (memo to oneself...make the bed before taking photos.)
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    timgarrod
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    Post  timgarrod on Wed Nov 13, 2013 10:23 am

    brilliant ideal
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) on Wed Nov 13, 2013 10:33 am

    Fingers crossed, it might be...trying to fit square things in round tubes has always baffled me, but this might help.
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) on Wed Nov 13, 2013 2:13 pm

    I've done a bit more to my two tier wtc, but the fingers are telling me enough is enough for today. I've installed the rudder/plane servos, the rx and the ballast pump so far...the top tray above the rx is where the esc for the motor (upside down) and the auto leveller (on top of the tray) will be fitted, the top tray above the ballast pump is where the pump controller board will be fitted, which leaves me the remainder of the bottom tray for everything else. Wiring will be cable tied along the brass rods, out of harms way.

    Thanks to Nigel's clever design, the whole assembly simply slides out of the cylinder after undoing the four brass knurled nuts you can see on the end cap.

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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) on Wed Nov 13, 2013 3:05 pm

    I will not be beaten by these damn fingers! I managed to get the pump control board fitted to the top tray...it fitted perfectly! That's either David's board manufacturing skills, or my tray measuring skills...either way, it fitted as though it were made for the job! It's just lightly secured with small cable ties, just pulled up tight enough to stop the board moving, but not enough to damage any of the delicate electronic components. (I was very careful, David...)

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    profesorul
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    Post  profesorul on Thu Nov 14, 2013 4:20 pm

    What Type of pump is that ?.
    What power is needed/Characteristics/where can be bought/ etc .....PLEASE.
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    Tom(ADMIN)
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) on Thu Nov 14, 2013 4:23 pm

    It's a 12volt car windscreen wash pump, Marius...costs around £12 or so from any car spares shop. This one is from a Land Rover, but they are all very similar.
    tattooed
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    Post  tattooed on Thu Nov 14, 2013 8:23 pm

    good idea there mate another way would be if you where to put a vertical bulkhead on the centre line the length of the wtc like an upsidedown T it's all about useable surface area
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) on Thu Nov 14, 2013 8:37 pm

    There must be loads of ways of increasing the useable space in a cylinder, I reckon. I still prefer the good old radio box, though...can't beat 'em.
    david f
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    Post  david f on Fri Nov 15, 2013 8:59 am

    Good to see the H bridge board in there, Richard!

    Fits well - long and thin is the thing!

    David
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) on Fri Nov 15, 2013 9:17 am

    It's a perfect fit, David...absolutely spot on. I hope to get round to testing it early next week...stand by for a loud bang and a cloud of smoke!
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) on Sat Nov 16, 2013 12:23 pm

    Another job ticked off the list...MicroGyros auto leveller installed on the top tray. I'm beginning to see the point of using a cylinder now...slowly.

    Two tier wtc? Photo_82
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    Post  thisbe on Sat Dec 14, 2013 9:33 am

    Where did you get the WTC? Nice piece of work.
    James
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) on Sat Dec 14, 2013 10:42 am

    Hi James,

    The actual cylinder itself was built by our beloved AMS Chairman, Nigel (nigele on here) he also installed the motor/gearbox unit.


    Richard
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    thisbe
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    Post  thisbe on Sat Dec 14, 2013 12:20 pm

    Richard

    Many thanks- will get in touch to cost.


    James
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) on Sat Dec 14, 2013 12:29 pm

    I think mine worked out at just under £100 for the tube, end caps, ballast tank & caps, plus the four brass rods and the motor/gearbox unit. Not a bad price...


    Richard
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    Post  thisbe on Sat Dec 14, 2013 12:42 pm

    Excellent price. I was thinking of using the RPM tech floating piston system- I have this on my RPM tech Holland - works really well - I use a counter weight to provide some static buoyancy control.
    BTW are you still the admin- the site is excellent.
    James
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) on Sat Dec 14, 2013 2:00 pm

    Yes, still Admin, James...slaving away over a hot keyboard, never complaining, working 24/7...underpaid and overworked...


    Richard
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    Post  subdriver on Fri Dec 20, 2013 1:48 pm

    Hi Rich,

    If I may...

    Be very wary of that geared washer pump as I have tried the exact same one in the past, it gets very hot in use ie after about 10 to 15 secs continuous use then starts to slow down and overheat.

    Its ok for very short bursts as it is intended but not continuous use for a ballast tank.
    The good news is that you can remove the metal motor casing and the guts and replace it with a 400 size motor as the internals are held together with 2 screws access via the pump assembly which can be removed via the 4 screws on the pump body and remove the 2 gears.

    I have this mod in my static seawolf will post a pic if you are interested.

    May you always surface the right way up !!!!

    Regards Sub.
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    Post  Tom(ADMIN) on Fri Dec 20, 2013 3:04 pm

    Hello Pete, nice to see you on here..

    Funny, I've never had problems with these pumps (they are 12v Land Rover screenwash pumps) although I do know that one or two of the guys have experienced problems with the orange coloured versions from Hong Kong.

    By all means, please do post some pictures of your modified pump, mate...I'd be very interested to see exactly what you did and how you did it.

    May your pump never slow down and overheat!!


    Rich

      Current date/time is Fri Nov 22, 2019 2:53 am